Rome. A church dome. Can't remember which one!
Some more recent Roman art.
The dome and main alter, San Pietro.
Tuesday, September 30, 2014
Friday, September 26, 2014
Today, September 26, Val and I left Roma and boarded the train for Napoli. We were very lucky to get two seats together after juggling around a bit and trying to keep an eye on our luggage a row away, in the aisle of the carroza, the train car. It was a crowded journey of almost 3 hrs, and did not present too many outstanding views of the "countryside" between the two major centres. As were moved through the outskirts of Roma there was yet more evidence of the mighty Roman Empire including a long stretch of aqueduct -another piece of ho-hum ancient architecture to the most-likey blase modern Romans.
We arrived in Napoli exactly on schedule (must have been some Swiss involved...) and easily found our way to our accommodation (I often just get right down to business and approach a cop to ask for directions - works every time), just a few blocks from Napoli Centrale Stazione. I pre-booked a room in a rather lovely, almost old world hotel, with "fine" furnishings and charm to spare. Our room is small, but clean and complete with the modern convenience of fully functioning wifi (unlike my second location in Roma, which had lamentably disfunctioning wifi - so bad, in fact as to be pretty much a non-starter, for 5 days). Okay, so the air-con isn't exactly fully functioning here, but we can open the window and let the cool night air waft through without being disturbed by traffic noise.
Already, after only 4 hours of being in Naples we noticed the price differences from Roma. For instance our accommodation in Roma for 5 nights came to about 390 euros. Here in Napoli at this lovely place, it is about 250 euros for the same number of nights. On top of that, in Roma there was a 3.5 euro/p/n city hotel tax. In Napoli it is 1.5 euros/p/n. Our dinner tonight was also less money than what we would have had to pay in Roma. Mine was an excellent dish of risotto with lemon, cream and shrimp and a perfect half bottle of Greco di Tufa d.o.g.c. vino bianchi. Val had pizza, for which Napoli is famoso. It was also superb - literally paper thin crust. I'm holding out until I find a hole-the-wall type vendor, in the next few days. There is all together too much pizza available in Italy, and I have a personal commitment to no over indulge in it. But when in Napoli, one must eat pizza, because this is where it was born. So I will, and am looking forward to having my first pizza so far, this trip.
Blogspot is still failing to allow me to include photos in my posts. I can't figure out why I can't attach my photos from my Picasa web album (a Google product) onto my Blogspot (another Google product) post, like I used to be able to. So, I guess I will have to upload them to Google + (you guessed it - another Google product) until I can get help from my I.T. support maestro, who happens to live in Vancouver...
The next few days will be filled with adventures in this chaotic city, which is entirely different from Roma. The buildings are more like Austro-Hungarian in appearance(although obviously they are Neoplolitan): the traffic is UNBELIEVABLE and pretty much seems to go on Aussie rules (a complete free-for-all with little to no regard for traffic lights on the part of vehicles AND pedestrians - worse even than Bangkok); the people are 'way, 'way less attractively dressed and made up - clothing styles are much less classy than in Roma, and folks are just less attractive as a result (Romans OOZE style. Here it's pretty much a kitchy cheese fest.) It is immediately evident that there is much less wealth in Napoli than in Roma. Real estate prices are a good testament to that! Anyway, there is a lot to see and do here, and I plan to make the most of the next few days. Stay tuned.
Mosaic at the National Archeological Museum. Rich or poor, we all meet the same in the end.
.
I think Aubrey Beardsley took his inspiration from ancient Greek frescoes in the "Fourth Style"
Much copied, this is the real one. Isn't it lovely?
A small piece of Naples from San Martino, which has just about the best museum of all!
We arrived in Napoli exactly on schedule (must have been some Swiss involved...) and easily found our way to our accommodation (I often just get right down to business and approach a cop to ask for directions - works every time), just a few blocks from Napoli Centrale Stazione. I pre-booked a room in a rather lovely, almost old world hotel, with "fine" furnishings and charm to spare. Our room is small, but clean and complete with the modern convenience of fully functioning wifi (unlike my second location in Roma, which had lamentably disfunctioning wifi - so bad, in fact as to be pretty much a non-starter, for 5 days). Okay, so the air-con isn't exactly fully functioning here, but we can open the window and let the cool night air waft through without being disturbed by traffic noise.
Already, after only 4 hours of being in Naples we noticed the price differences from Roma. For instance our accommodation in Roma for 5 nights came to about 390 euros. Here in Napoli at this lovely place, it is about 250 euros for the same number of nights. On top of that, in Roma there was a 3.5 euro/p/n city hotel tax. In Napoli it is 1.5 euros/p/n. Our dinner tonight was also less money than what we would have had to pay in Roma. Mine was an excellent dish of risotto with lemon, cream and shrimp and a perfect half bottle of Greco di Tufa d.o.g.c. vino bianchi. Val had pizza, for which Napoli is famoso. It was also superb - literally paper thin crust. I'm holding out until I find a hole-the-wall type vendor, in the next few days. There is all together too much pizza available in Italy, and I have a personal commitment to no over indulge in it. But when in Napoli, one must eat pizza, because this is where it was born. So I will, and am looking forward to having my first pizza so far, this trip.
Blogspot is still failing to allow me to include photos in my posts. I can't figure out why I can't attach my photos from my Picasa web album (a Google product) onto my Blogspot (another Google product) post, like I used to be able to. So, I guess I will have to upload them to Google + (you guessed it - another Google product) until I can get help from my I.T. support maestro, who happens to live in Vancouver...
The next few days will be filled with adventures in this chaotic city, which is entirely different from Roma. The buildings are more like Austro-Hungarian in appearance(although obviously they are Neoplolitan): the traffic is UNBELIEVABLE and pretty much seems to go on Aussie rules (a complete free-for-all with little to no regard for traffic lights on the part of vehicles AND pedestrians - worse even than Bangkok); the people are 'way, 'way less attractively dressed and made up - clothing styles are much less classy than in Roma, and folks are just less attractive as a result (Romans OOZE style. Here it's pretty much a kitchy cheese fest.) It is immediately evident that there is much less wealth in Napoli than in Roma. Real estate prices are a good testament to that! Anyway, there is a lot to see and do here, and I plan to make the most of the next few days. Stay tuned.
First cena, dinner, in Napoli.
My risotto. Delizioso!
.
Much copied, this is the real one. Isn't it lovely?
We walked down down down from San Martino (highest point in Naples) and into il Quartieri Spangola.
Tuesday, September 23, 2014
It's been a fine time these past few days in Rome. I've seen a LOT of churches (there are just SO MANY of them - all stunning!). In addition I have been to a museum or two , and areas of the city that warrant poking around at leisure. Today I went on a one hour tour of the Jewish Ghetto. I learned that Rome has the oldest Jewish community in Europe, and that the Jews who came here originally came from the Holy Land and so were neither Ashkenazi or Sephardic Jews, but are a third distinct group - Italian Jews. They had a pretty rough go of it due to Papal restrictions on their ability to do business and move about. A wall was built around the Ghetto and for three centuries they were subjected to a curfew. The wall was taken down and the Tiber river was walled throughout the city in the late1800's (?), thus preventing the regular flooding of the ghetto, and thus allowing for healthier, cleaner conditions.
The area of Trastevere (across the Tiber) is a very interesting part of Rome, just south of Vatican City. Although it is absolutely crammed with tourists, it has a quint, small town feel to it. The buildings have a different style to those in il rioni di Termini.
Two nights ago I was joined by my friend Valerie. She had been travelling in places north of Rome, and took the train from Cinque Terre to Rome to meet me.. At least that was the plan - to meet at Statzione Termini just after her train was due to arrive at 18:00. Well, she didn't arrive and so I decided I had to make my way to our accommodation without her (I was shifting from the hostel to a small pensione near Il Vaticano, where we had a room booked for 5 nights). We had no way of communicating, both being phoneless, and the internet connection at Termini was hopeless (she finally got my messages this morning!). But she did have the address and so I hoped she would just hope a cab when she arrived. Problem is, there is no "reception" at such establishments and I had no way of knowing when she would arrive, short of parking myself outside on the sidewalk, waiting for her. It was after 8:00 and I still hadn't eaten, so I left a note on the locked gated entrance, and headed to a nearby, rather nice restaurant. It was a great relief to look up from my piatti di gnocchi and see Val peering through the window, looking for me! She had had an epic day of travelling to Rome due to rail line wash-outs, and was bumped to a bus. She was over two hours longer, but arrived safe and sound, if more than a little weary.
So, we have had a couple of good days, one together and today on our separate ways. Val's hip is much worse than my back, which is troublesome enough, so after logging several kms in Trastevere yesterday, she opted for the hop-on/hop-off bus tour, while I did my own walk-about .
On my way back to our room, as I was making my way up the street opposite the Vatican walls, I looked ahead and I say to myself "OMG that's Teresa Spinelli!" And sure enough, it was. Istopped her by saying her name, and she said "Yes" and I said "I'm from Edmonton". There are about 4 million residents in Rome and probably half a million tourists. What are the chances? E uno piccolo mondo, no? We had a brief chat, I told her how long I've been shopping at her store, she took our selfie, and said to look her up next time I'm in the store. Pazzo. Crazy.
The area of Trastevere (across the Tiber) is a very interesting part of Rome, just south of Vatican City. Although it is absolutely crammed with tourists, it has a quint, small town feel to it. The buildings have a different style to those in il rioni di Termini.
Two nights ago I was joined by my friend Valerie. She had been travelling in places north of Rome, and took the train from Cinque Terre to Rome to meet me.. At least that was the plan - to meet at Statzione Termini just after her train was due to arrive at 18:00. Well, she didn't arrive and so I decided I had to make my way to our accommodation without her (I was shifting from the hostel to a small pensione near Il Vaticano, where we had a room booked for 5 nights). We had no way of communicating, both being phoneless, and the internet connection at Termini was hopeless (she finally got my messages this morning!). But she did have the address and so I hoped she would just hope a cab when she arrived. Problem is, there is no "reception" at such establishments and I had no way of knowing when she would arrive, short of parking myself outside on the sidewalk, waiting for her. It was after 8:00 and I still hadn't eaten, so I left a note on the locked gated entrance, and headed to a nearby, rather nice restaurant. It was a great relief to look up from my piatti di gnocchi and see Val peering through the window, looking for me! She had had an epic day of travelling to Rome due to rail line wash-outs, and was bumped to a bus. She was over two hours longer, but arrived safe and sound, if more than a little weary.
So, we have had a couple of good days, one together and today on our separate ways. Val's hip is much worse than my back, which is troublesome enough, so after logging several kms in Trastevere yesterday, she opted for the hop-on/hop-off bus tour, while I did my own walk-about .
On my way back to our room, as I was making my way up the street opposite the Vatican walls, I looked ahead and I say to myself "OMG that's Teresa Spinelli!" And sure enough, it was. Istopped her by saying her name, and she said "Yes" and I said "I'm from Edmonton". There are about 4 million residents in Rome and probably half a million tourists. What are the chances? E uno piccolo mondo, no? We had a brief chat, I told her how long I've been shopping at her store, she took our selfie, and said to look her up next time I'm in the store. Pazzo. Crazy.
Saturday, September 20, 2014
Rome, September 20, 2014
It was 5 years ago that I was in Rome. I intended to return a lot sooner that this, but I finally made it. Good thing I wasn't too cheap to toss a coin into Trevi Fountain, or I mightn't have made it!
Before arriving in Rome I spent a few days in Vancouver visiting with my daughter Caitlin and her partner Chris, and my son Ryan and his wife Guin and their two boys, Kallan, 2 3/4 yrs., and new baby Tobin, one month. It was a gift to spend some family time together with them - something I get precious little of. My son Colin joined us via Face Time for a visit from Halifax.
The flight to Rome was routed through Toronto, and the second leg of the journey was quite an ordeal. The seats are small and cramped and even with the additional assistance from melatonin, sleep did not come easily. But I made it, safe and sound, to my hostel accommodation not too far from Termini Station. But it was before check-in time, so I left my suitcase there and headed out to get my bearings.
With my Rick Steves guidebook for Rome firmly in my grasp I ventured into terrain that was a little familiar to me from five years ago. I planned to see some of the same sites again, to orient myself, and test my route finding skills. RUSTY is how I would describe them, but getting better. And anyways half the fun of travelling big cities is in the getting lost part. Right?
First observations: Rome is busier, more crowded with immigrants and tourists, noisier, and dirtier, than it was in 2009. Still, there are places you can find that offer quiet respite from the madding crowds and hustle. Mostly those places are churches, of which there is an unbelievable abundance. This you already know. I do too, but it still amazes me, the sheer number of chiesi and basilichi. And always with very beautifully adorned interiors.
It's hot. Really hot. Plus 31 today with no wind and lots of humidity. I need lighter clothes. Maybe I should go shopping. Or not. Maybe after my friend Val joins me, tomorrow night. She's got more style than I do and would be a good critic.
Today I spent half the day at Appia Antica. Did I mention that it's hot? Really hot? Yes, indeed. I'm still not quite over the time change and found myself almost sleep walking there. Anyways, it's a pretty old road dating back to Aurelius. One of his public work projects, it provided an ancient highway from Rome to Taranto in the deep south. Paved with basalt stones, there are still parts of it in place. There are a couple of catacombs there as well, and the Church of San Sebastian which has two sculptures by Bernini..
The other sites I've gone to have been in central Rome, and included re-visiting Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Campo di Fiori and some of the churches in the vicinties. Crowds galore. One of the big disappointments is that Trevi Fountain isn't accepting coin tosses right now, as it is undergoing restoration and maintenance. It's draped from top to bottom in tarps, drained and the taps are turned off. So are a lot of expectant tourists - I witnessed yelling match between an italian tourist and his italian tour guide that seemed very heated. I imagine that the tourist was stating that he paid to see the fountain and the tour company probably knows full well that it is a bust, but saw their way clear to bringing the unsuspecting walking tour guests past it anyway. Now they can say the have seen Trevi Fountain. Save your coins for next time, folks.
Just spoke with a dorm-mate, who toured Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums today. The crowds are so bad there that you are shoulder to shoulder all the way through. I'm having second thoughts about going there, now. I know it's about as good as it gets, but too many people just takes too much away from the experience. See what Val says.
I am experiencing some problems with how to post pictures on this blog. Google has made changes to it since I last used it in 2010. I will need to do some searching to find out how to proceed.
Meanwhile, it's time to start thinking about supper, cena. Hopefully I can find something decent that won't break the bank. My first night here I went next door to a lovely enoteca. I had a dish of four gnodi (different from gnocchi), made with ricotta and spinach, each about the size of a golf ball. A glass of white wine was perfectly matched, and finished with an espresso. That's all I had - no salad, no desert, no second glass of wine (although I was tempted). 20 euros. That's about C$30. It was very delish, but.... last night I only spent 13 euros for a bowl of broth with ravioli, a tomato salad, a tiny veal scalopini, a carafe of red wine (completely unremarkable) and fruit. Better price but boring, very ordinary. Ka-ching!
It was 5 years ago that I was in Rome. I intended to return a lot sooner that this, but I finally made it. Good thing I wasn't too cheap to toss a coin into Trevi Fountain, or I mightn't have made it!
Before arriving in Rome I spent a few days in Vancouver visiting with my daughter Caitlin and her partner Chris, and my son Ryan and his wife Guin and their two boys, Kallan, 2 3/4 yrs., and new baby Tobin, one month. It was a gift to spend some family time together with them - something I get precious little of. My son Colin joined us via Face Time for a visit from Halifax.
The flight to Rome was routed through Toronto, and the second leg of the journey was quite an ordeal. The seats are small and cramped and even with the additional assistance from melatonin, sleep did not come easily. But I made it, safe and sound, to my hostel accommodation not too far from Termini Station. But it was before check-in time, so I left my suitcase there and headed out to get my bearings.
With my Rick Steves guidebook for Rome firmly in my grasp I ventured into terrain that was a little familiar to me from five years ago. I planned to see some of the same sites again, to orient myself, and test my route finding skills. RUSTY is how I would describe them, but getting better. And anyways half the fun of travelling big cities is in the getting lost part. Right?
First observations: Rome is busier, more crowded with immigrants and tourists, noisier, and dirtier, than it was in 2009. Still, there are places you can find that offer quiet respite from the madding crowds and hustle. Mostly those places are churches, of which there is an unbelievable abundance. This you already know. I do too, but it still amazes me, the sheer number of chiesi and basilichi. And always with very beautifully adorned interiors.
It's hot. Really hot. Plus 31 today with no wind and lots of humidity. I need lighter clothes. Maybe I should go shopping. Or not. Maybe after my friend Val joins me, tomorrow night. She's got more style than I do and would be a good critic.
Today I spent half the day at Appia Antica. Did I mention that it's hot? Really hot? Yes, indeed. I'm still not quite over the time change and found myself almost sleep walking there. Anyways, it's a pretty old road dating back to Aurelius. One of his public work projects, it provided an ancient highway from Rome to Taranto in the deep south. Paved with basalt stones, there are still parts of it in place. There are a couple of catacombs there as well, and the Church of San Sebastian which has two sculptures by Bernini..
The other sites I've gone to have been in central Rome, and included re-visiting Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Campo di Fiori and some of the churches in the vicinties. Crowds galore. One of the big disappointments is that Trevi Fountain isn't accepting coin tosses right now, as it is undergoing restoration and maintenance. It's draped from top to bottom in tarps, drained and the taps are turned off. So are a lot of expectant tourists - I witnessed yelling match between an italian tourist and his italian tour guide that seemed very heated. I imagine that the tourist was stating that he paid to see the fountain and the tour company probably knows full well that it is a bust, but saw their way clear to bringing the unsuspecting walking tour guests past it anyway. Now they can say the have seen Trevi Fountain. Save your coins for next time, folks.
Just spoke with a dorm-mate, who toured Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums today. The crowds are so bad there that you are shoulder to shoulder all the way through. I'm having second thoughts about going there, now. I know it's about as good as it gets, but too many people just takes too much away from the experience. See what Val says.
I am experiencing some problems with how to post pictures on this blog. Google has made changes to it since I last used it in 2010. I will need to do some searching to find out how to proceed.
Meanwhile, it's time to start thinking about supper, cena. Hopefully I can find something decent that won't break the bank. My first night here I went next door to a lovely enoteca. I had a dish of four gnodi (different from gnocchi), made with ricotta and spinach, each about the size of a golf ball. A glass of white wine was perfectly matched, and finished with an espresso. That's all I had - no salad, no desert, no second glass of wine (although I was tempted). 20 euros. That's about C$30. It was very delish, but.... last night I only spent 13 euros for a bowl of broth with ravioli, a tomato salad, a tiny veal scalopini, a carafe of red wine (completely unremarkable) and fruit. Better price but boring, very ordinary. Ka-ching!
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