Trieste:

I had opted to stay for a couple of nights in Trieste, even though I was intending to go from Venice into Slovenia. However, there was too little information about accommodation in, and bus or train service to the few small towns on the coast of Slovenia for me to make a decision to go there (where?). So, in hopes of being able to fill in some gaps, I elected to add Trieste to my itinerary. The little that I had read about it, made it sound interesting enough to warrant a stop over, at least. I had made a reservation at a “hostel” in Trieste, and it was easy to find, being very close to the train station. It’s not what you would call “welcoming”, and the fellow who runs it is a bit stern. Pretty tired and worn out, it is in need of some freshening and brightening up. Some hooks in the bathroom wouldn’t hurt, and perhaps somewhere to put your toiletries bag would be helpful. There are numerous signs in scratchy felt pen advising guests not to do this and not to do that and not to do the other, rather than just fixing stuff and making it better. Obviously with an eye to keeping his costs as low as possible, hall lights were generally off, even at night. Kinda creepy - darn good thing I have a tiny flashlight in my bag, otherwise I would not have been able to see the key hole to the doors! It was actually quite safe, and the fellow turned out to be quite helpful, when he was around, and spoke very good English. I wouldn’t rush back, though.

Trieste is quite an interesting place from the standpoint of its geographical location and all the political influences it has had over the centuries. Starting with the Romans, and going right up to post WW2, it has been subjected to outside influences pushing and pulling it into what it is today. It being only a stones’ throw from the border with Slovenia, Trieste is a real mish-mash of the two cultures. I believe there are 3 languages spoken - Italian, Slovene, and a hybrid of the two, Fruilano. I guess it is a good first step into to world of eastern Europe, being like a beginner level course - EE 101. Houses and products in the stores start to look different here. And so do the people and the way they dress. They look more like Canadians - a mixture of sizes and body types, and not that concerned about fashion.

The downtown part of the city was built in the 1800’s, for the most part. I think there was a devastating earthquake which destroyed what had been there. At any rate, there must have been an incredible building boom, because there are hundreds of these very handsome buildings, some with more ornate finishing touches and facades than others.

I couldn’t help getting this feeling of latent fascism though. I don’t know how well Mussolini was/is admired/revered here(or hated for that matter), but to me there seems to be a certain “je ne sais quoi” air about the place. Having said that, there is definitely a reverence for literature and in particular the writings of James Joyce. He lived in Trieste, apparently, and there is a museum dedicated to his memory (!), and the James Joyce Bookstore at the train station.

And then there are the cafés. Trieste has a hardcore café culture. One could spend a week just going to cafés, never repeating a visit, and there would be lots left over. After 2 or 3 days of applying ones self to said task, one might figure out proper café etiquette, as a bonus. However, one would probably put on at least 10 pounds, due to the delectable goodies on offer.