The trip to this town in southern Czech Republic was half by train and half by mini bus. I took out a loan to buy the Austrian train ticket (just kidding) to get from Salzburg to Linz, about an hour and a half long ride. From there I got a pre-arranged pick up to take me to Cesky Krumlov. It was immediately apparent when we crossed the Austria/Czech border. Not so prosperous in southern Czech R. as in neighbouring Austria. There were small hamlets and villages that we passed through, that seemed like they were in a bit of a time warp, about 15 or 20 years behind the times. Really pretty countryside, rolling hills with forest and farms and more villages. I was dropped off about 300 meters from my hostel, so it was a very convenient way to travel. I wish there were more such transfer operators in the business.
Being in Cesky Krumlov is like walking around in an Arthur Rackham illustration. The buildings are so cute and just a little bit, but perfectly off-angle. The facades are highly decorated using the sgrafitto method (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sgraffito). There is a castle on the hill with a fancy-schmancy round tower, and an ancient brewery, and a waterwheel, and everything! It is one of the best castle museums I've been to, although it was pretty much all outside, in the bitter cold, unfortunately. A big disappointment was not being able to go inside the castle theatre which dated back to the 1700's I think. It is only open in the summer months, but apparently when it was built no expense was spared to make it a fully functioning state of the art facility with mechanical devices for movable stages and much , much more, making it the most advanced facility of its kind. It is still fully functional in its original configuration and still used as a performance venue.
There is also a gallery showcasing the works and life of Egon Schiele, who's mother came from Cesky Krumlov, and who spent plenty of time there himself. Sadly, the righteous townsfolk did not approve of his lifestyle or his art and he was run out of town. Today, the locals are quite a bit more liberally minded!
I loved this town, and was wondering if I had left too soon, after 4 nights, for Prague...
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