Salzburg, Austria.

So, I didn't do the "Sound of Music Tour" which of course is one of the main deals in Salzburg. This admission may come as something of a surprise to members of my family of origin, knowing what a huge fan I was of that movie and the music and Julie Andrews! However, I stood my ground, even though I was somewhat tempted when I read the itinerary. However, the weather was miserable and visibility was limited, and so I decided that there would be no point in paying an exorbitant amount of euros if half the sites would be shrouded in fog, cloud and darkness. Instead I settled for the usual self-guided option.

I will come right out and say it - I didn't really like Salzburg. I'm guessing it is stunningly beautiful in the summer, and absolutely crawling with tourists. Even in the dead of winter, there are a lot of tourists in this town. The city exists now, because of tourism. I think that it is safe to say that every job in Salzburg is a direct, or not very indirect result of tourism. It is a wealthy and prosperous place, and evidently they are managing the throngs to their advantage - and why not? But please, can someone explain to me why they are such a crabby lot? In fact, it is not that I didn't like Salzburg. It's Salzburgers! You know - if you live in a major tourist centre, and you hate tourists, then probably you should live somewhere else. It's not like the tourism thing is new to Salzburg. It's been the deal for a very long time! Since not long after salt was discovered, I think! Snippy, snippy workers serving cold Viennese coffee (sniff) and dried out fancy pastry (sniff sniff) for 7.50 euros, and expecting a 3 euro tip! Sorry, I'm not going back!

It wasn't all bad though. It truly is a beautiful place, with the dramatic backdrop of the Austrian Alps, echoing all that Austrian Angst. The fortress up on the hill overlooking the city is quite marvelous, and requires only a small mortgage against your property for admission. I did have one of those "special, rare moments" when I hiked up the trail to the Carpathian Monastery, and upon entering the church sat down to enjoy the final throes of Bach's Toccata and Fugue being played on the organ. The monks were very welcoming and invited me to sit and listen. Even Salzburgers can't take away the pure joy of listening to Bach!

There are some fabulously beautiful churches, natch, and some good looking buildings, but not a lot of colour or ornate exteriors facades that are so prevalent in Vienna. But it does have a nice system of trails that wind up and down the hills that surround the city. Salzburg is in the middle of a large flat plain with a few odd lumps and hills scattered over it. The mountains are "over there", but not as close as they are in, say, Vancouver, but you can make them out through the haze if the light is right.

Lot of history to Salzburg which started well before the von Trappe family came on the scene. Of course, salt is a big part of the story, about which I learned almost nothing! Just another cranky tourist.

Despite the miserable wind and cold, I did manage to take a few pictures, so that my memories of the place will not be lost to the cruel ravages of old age.